Spain Extravaganza – Days 5-7, Rioja:

I’ve been to many of the top wine regions of the world: Mendoza in Argentina, Franschhoek in South Africa, California hotspots from Healdsburg to Paso Robles, and Rioja is as idyllic and panoramic as they come. Spread between three areas, Rioja Alta, Rioja Baja and Rioja Alavesa, there is much ground to cover to see all that the region has to offer. Besides world-class wineries, there are picturesque medieval towns, Michelin-starred restaurants and glorious vistas throughout this part of Spain.

We spent two nights at the Parador de Santa Domingo de la Calzada, in the town of the same name. This tiny town is wonderful for ambling and we happened upon a street festival with puppets, characters on stilts and comedic relief by hammed-up buffoons. Welcome to summer in Spain. Our hotel, a 12th century structure, once a hospital for pilgrims on the way to Santiago de Compostela, features a main hall with stone Gothic arches, gorgeous heavy antique wood furnishings, spacious rooms with marble bathrooms and French doors opening out on the plaza. Not for every client as luxury is not a word I’d use to describe it, but authentic and historic.

We spent the next few days visiting all types of wineries:  historic, private, modern, isolated, ivy-covered, sleek, lavender-surrounded, famous-architect-designed, cold and corporate…and found the best of the best. We perused ancient walled towns (Laguardia is exceptional), discovered restaurant gems, tiny patisseries, charcuteries and wine shops (hey, somebody has to do it). We’ve customized expert trips for wine connoisseurs and gourmands alike, details can be obtained by contacting me directly for a proposal; escorted trips with Andres and his partner Michael will be offered next summer.

The highlight of our visit was a stay at the outstanding Marques de Riscal hotel. A Starwood property designed by Frank Gehry, this hotel has put Rioja on the map for the luxury traveler. Situated in the delightful town of Elciego, this contemporary tour de force of curvaceous gold and pink titanium is not only the preeminent hotel in Rioja, it is truly one of the most unique and lavish in the country. There are two wings, the Gehry Wing, which, if you are an architecture buff (which account for a huge percentage of visits annually) is a must. You’re right in the rolling mass of metal, and each room arcs to mimic the waves. The rooms are significantly smaller than the Spa Wing rooms, which appear bland and boxy after the Gehry counterparts, but are quite large and have views of the structure and the town with charming cathedral and/or vineyards sightings. The bathrooms are standard for both, enormous and spectacular with black marble and granite, huge tubs and separate glassed-in shower.

We ate at Bistro 1860, the casual restaurant as the fine dining option was closed, and the tasting menu was indeed tasty, but nothing fabulous. Magnificent wine list, we ordered a bottle of Marques de Murrieta Ygay 2000, which was positively luscious. We drank port with a couple we met up in the library, where guests can smoke cigars, relax on the terrace and play chess. Michelin-starred Executive Chef Francis Paniego runs both restaurants, and while we weren’t bowled over by dinner, breakfast the next morning was decadent and more than compensated.

In the lower level, the award-winning Caudalie Spa is striking, with black granite and flourishes of red. Besides the gym, indoor pool, and hammam, they offer traditional massages and wine therapies, their most popular being the detoxifying vino bath. They even offer a weeklong detox program with intense treatments, popular with starlets preparing to walk the red carpet. After a week of a practically all-meat and wine diet, I’m ready to enroll.