What are Chemical peels?

Chemical peeling is a process used to improve the skin by applying a chemical solution to the skin that causes the top layers of skin to separate and shed. A new layer of skin is exposed that is smooth and less wrinkled. Additionally, hyper-pigmentation is diminished and nutrient products, i.e. serums, will penetrate more effectively. The process also stimulates regeneration of new cells.

What types of peels are available?

There are now many different chemical solutions that can be applied. There are generally three categories of skin peels:

1. Superficial peels are the most common and comes in two variations:

a. Alpha Hydroxy acids or AHA’s including glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid, or tartaric acid. Alpha hydroxy acids are water soluble only and, in general, are more often used on thickened, sun-damaged skin where breakouts are not a problem.

b. Beta Hydroxy peel, or Salicylic Acid peel, are lipid (oil) soluble. This means that beta hydroxy acid is able to penetrate into the pore and exfoliate the dead skin cells that are built up inside. Although every treatment is customized, beta hydroxy acid, in general, is more aptly used on oily skin.

Superficial peels have very little or no down time. They are applied in strengths ranging from 2% to 50% (anything above a 50% must be done by a dermatologist and is considered a mid-depth peel). The only visible peeling is a dusting or flaking and minimal or no redness depending on the skin sensitivity.

2. Mid-depth peels are Trichloracetic Acid (TCA), Jessner, Resorcinol or Phenol peels. Mid-depth peels require the right timing. Schedule 3 to 4 days after the peel with no major events. The skin will shed more visibly with a mid-depth peel and can look like the peeling after a sun burn. Some redness and sensitivity is expected.

3. Deep peels are done by a dermatologist and have down time. It is a more serious procedure and although the results can be good, there are also more serious risks. Talk to your dermatologist about the risks and rewards of this treatment.

Next week Marissa will discuss which kind of chemical peel is best for which skin type as well as a regiment to maximize the effects.

[Photo from Dennis Wong via Flickr]

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