The Event: PATTI SMITH Live in Concert, A Benefit for The American Folk Art Museum

Espace, NYC – May 15, 2010

The Cause: To raise money for the American Folk Museum, which was founded in 1961 and has a large collection of folk art from the 18^th century through the present day.

Event Co-Chairs: Peyton Cochran and Petra Levin

The Credentials:Rock legend Patti Smith performed an intimate concert at the American Folk Art Museum in New York, in celebration of writer/artist Henry Darger’s birthday. With his art featured in the museum through September in the exhibit “The Private Collection of Hendry Darger,” the deceased Darger’s birthday was celebrated on May 15^th, despite the fact that nobody actually knows when his birthday was. It is thought to be April 12^th, 1892. Other notable guests included singer Caroline Jones, who performed, as well as Betsey Johnson, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Steven Sebring, and more.

©Patrick McMullan

Photos by PATRICK MCMULLAN

Exhibit: The Allure of the Automobile

Museum: The High Museum of Art, Atlanta

Duration: March 21 – June 20, 2010

411: Every year, around the time of the High Museum of Art wine auction, the museum unveils a critically acclaimed exhibit which ultimately becomes the inspiration for the auction’s theme. For this year’s “The Allure of Wine: Uncork a Journey” Atlanta wine auction, vintners and trade alike were invited to take a private tour of the featured “The Allure of the Automobile” exhibit. Last year’s display of the legendary Terra Cotta Warriors from China was almost as breathtaking as this year’s collection of eighteen of the rarest vintage automobiles to date. Given the extraordinary condition and value of these vehicles, most of them have never leave their permanent residence for public viewing, but thanks to the exceptional curatorial team at the High, the temporary display guarded by security proved to be an exception for many and an unrivaled experience for their viewers.

From an ivory Duesenberg convertible gifted to Clark Gable by his then wife Carole Lombard to Steve McQueen’s Jaguar and a classic Tucker, one thing’s for sure – these works of art are nothing short of perfection.

View our exclusive slideshow of the exhibit:

Peyton Cochran is a young dynamo who is passionate about the American Folk Art Museum and is the Founder of the Young Patron committee. Their first event – 100% Folk, is set for December 11th and will be held at the Museum on West 53rd in New York.

Here we caught up with Peyton, despite her busy schedule, to learn more about the Museum, the event as well as a bit more about her personally.

What is it about the American Folk Art Museum (AFAM) that got you interested in creating the Young Patrons committee?

All of my interest stems from my Godfather-one of the coolest and smartest guys I know! He has always lived on the cutting edge; introduced me to James Brown and rollerblades (when they were all the rage), knows the hippest restaurants and gadgets on the market and has an incredible eye for amazing art. We have very similar taste so I was shocked when I received a call from him telling me that he had an extra ticket to The American Antique Show (“TAAS”) and the Outsider’s Art Fair (“OAF”).  Being a more contemporary art enthusiast I was convinced he meant to call mom and not me.

But I went and the artwork and the antiques blew me away. I was surprised, though, by how much older everyone was at this event! I was by far the youngest attendee by about 30 years. As I raved about the artwork to my friends it became apparent that none of them had even heard about the shows let alone the American Folk Art Museum.

So I went back to my godfather and asked him if the museum had a younger contingent. When I was informed that they did not—I immediately knew I had found next challenge. Thus began the development process of the Young Patrons!

Your first event is called 100% Folk, which is coming up on December 11th. What will guests experience at the event?

An evening of incredibly yummy specialty cocktails by one of our big sponsors Firefly Sweet Tea Vodka, as well as Brooklyn Brewery beers, and phenomenal wine from Landmark Vineyards. The incredible Sollis Brothers (E.B from the Blood St. Band, and Jonny Famous) will be dj-ing while a variety of very unexpected hors d’oeuvres will be passed throughout the dance floor. There will also be a life sized Polaroid photo booth as well as some surprises I can’t reveal!  It will be a very eclectic mix of fun-hip-outrageously motivated and driven young individuals coming together to support local resources, re-introduce what Folk means to them and have one heck of a good time doing it!

Do you consider it a fundraiser or an event to build awareness amongst the younger demographic?

Shouldn’t every event be a fundraising event? (only kidding) I would say this is a mixture of both. It’s the launch party and unveiling of the Young Patrons so in many regards this event will be building awareness. As the Chair and Founder of this group I made it my personal mission from the get-go to keep overhead production expenses minimized. So we can really focus our efforts on ticket sales and filling the museum. That said—if we hit our target headcount we will have raised a significant amount of money for the museum!

How much are the tickets and where can someone purchase them?

Ticket prices are $30 in advance and $40 at the door and can be purchased on-line at our website youngfolk.org (designed by one of my most phenomenally talented collaborators, Jason Whalen of Agency Charlie, I might add).

How do you convince a younger demographic to support AFAM when there are so many other museums in NYC, including the Guggenheim, MoMA and the Met, all of whom have established younger followings?

It wasn’t as difficult as one would expect because what we are creating is quite different. It was a very simple strategy— we’ve brought it back to the basics and made it about the young folks. We’ve crafted a new concept to re-define the typical benefit and fundraising scene by introducing a series of parties throughout the year to encourage and embrace the lifestyle of the young folk. There are opportunities everywhere but many times they are missed because people are too focused on the bottom line number and not prioritizing their strategy.

In our opinion everyone has a little Folk in them. This event is unique because it focuses on the individuals who worked on the event, as well as the people who are attending 100% Folk. For example, we designed an ad campaign highlighting committee members in their element. The design includes Polaroid snapshots of each committee member with their percentage (of being Folk) breakdown.

This campaign re-defines and re-introduces what Folk means to us. It’s not just about rocking chairs and weathervanes anymore—it’s much, much more. But in order to really understand what I’m talking about you have to visit the museum and see for yourself!

You’ve tapped into a wide selection of committee members, everywhere from Connecticut to California.  How did you assemble such a team and how are they involved in a Folk Museum in NYC?

Many of the committee members have been friends forever! I have lived in NYC, CT and Charleston South Carolina so many of the members come from those areas. When I began thinking about who I would ask to participate in this group I decided to start listing people who had unique qualifications and talent to bring to the table. I didn’t let geography limit my choices-because with technology everyone can be connected within an instant. Many times people look locally to compile a committee because it’s easier and more comfortable. Ironically the more people heard about what we were doing at the Folk Art Museum for the YP committee the more people started approaching me to see how they could get involved. One of the members is actually in Paris! The Vice Chairs and I work closely together to make decisions that will impact the development and the growth of this group. Additionally all committee members help promote and market the mission behind our group and how it relates to the AFAM.

Who would you identify as your fund raising mentor or role model?

My mother. She is the most giving and caring person I know and puts everyone before herself. Her ability to bring people together is indescribable. She can make oil and water mix together. People flock to her for her resources and her unconventional ideas. But I’ve been taking notes and I think I’ve caught onto her trick. She’s like a new-age Houdini-she creates environments and parties that are comfortable, inviting and so much fun you forget you’re at a fundraiser. And then POOF! She vanishes and she’s on to planning the next event.

What other organizations are you involved?

• The Kristen Ann Carr Fund
• American Red Cross
• Arthritis Foundation of Northern California
• SHARE

Profession (besides creating new volunteer organizations)?

Three years ago I began a sole proprietorship in NYC in conjunction to working a fulltime job. Opportunities kept popping up for my small business so I had to make a decision.  Take a leap of faith and go off on my own or continue the juggling act and run the risk of losing the opportunities. So this past August I took the plunge and transplanted myself to San Francisco to focus on developing a west coast presence for my own company called EPiC Design Studios- design consulting specializing in Events, Products, Interiors and Communications. I still spend a lot of time going back and forth between coasts in order to maintain my client base and to see my family. It’s a work in progress but I am incredibly excited by the recent growth and the challenges I encounter on a daily basis.

What are you wearing to 100% Folk?

I will either be wearing a very cool dress made by Gus Harputs of San Francisco with booties and fun tights or a dress by my friend Jan Warnock of San Francisco.

Driving…?

I recently purchased a Prius which is by far the biggest purchase I have ever made. I keep telling myself to think of it as a large handbag that provides transportation. (I can throw everything I need for the day in it and take off anywhere) Everyone should buy one they’re the only car that provides an ROI in gas savings and they’re good for the environment and sooo spiffy inside! I call it the Space P-Pod. I love it.

Sugar or salt…?

Salt and Vinegar hands down. My refrigerator is always stocked with Claasen dill pickles. Can’t live without them. But Sundays—I’m known to eat anything that’s not nailed down…..including sweets. I mean you can always get back on that diet on Monday right??? J

Song stuck in your head…?

Fix You by Coldplay.

Dreaming of…?

I don’t sleep very much these days. I live by the saying “Some people sleep at night dreaming about big ideas, while others stay awake achieving them.” Right now I’m dreaming of catching some much needed ZZZZZ’s!

Can’t get enough of…?

Business & Sociology books. (I have stacks of them on my nightstand)

In 10 years…?

I definitely have a 5 year plan-but haven’t really thought beyond that. Ideally in 10 years I will have established a strong presence for EPiC in NYC, SF and Charleston SC. I also hope to be settled down with someone (although I’m not sure who that person is right now) who carries the same work ethic as I do—but can appreciate the more important things in life-like having fun, family and friends.

Envious of…?

AVROKO, one of the most dynamic and innovative design firms in New York City.  Also, CarTelligent, a unique car buying brokerage firm that started up in San Francisco. I’m envious of their business models and their success!

Obsessed with…?

Miniature ponies, English Angora rabbits and bulldogs. (one day I’d love to have a farm so all of them can roam… I’d also have oreo cows and fainting goats!)

People would never believe…?

That Statistics was my strongest subject.

MISSION: The American Folk Art Museum is the premier institution devoted to the aesthetic appreciation of traditional folk art and creative expressions of contemporary self-taught artists from the United States and abroad. The museum preserves, conserves, and interprets a comprehensive collection of the highest quality, with objects dating from the eighteenth century to the present.

LOCATION: 45 West 53rd Street
(between 5th and 6th Avenues)
New York, NY 10019-5401
T  212. 265. 1040
F  212. 265. 2350

WEBSITES: American Folk Art Museum,

Young Patrons

100% Folk sponsors mentioned in this article:

• Firefly Sweet Tea Vodka
• Brooklyn Brewery
• Landmark Vineyards
• Sollis Brothers
• Agency Charlie
• Flavorpill

Ironically, there were three highlights on day three.

Our one and only art adventure began and concluded at Scope, which is one of the top two unofficial Basel art fairs. Located in an expansive warehouse on one of the main blocks of Miami’s Design District (where the majority of the best unofficial shows take place), Scope consists of exhibitors showcasing contemporary art, much of which I personally felt was mildly interesting, however, we did discover a handful of works that captivated us. One artist from Venezuela, in particular, who lives in New York, creates these fabulous black ceramic royal crowns and places them atop luxury brand gift boxes. Our favorite was one in which he features a side-by-side queen crown atop a Tiffany & Co. box and the king’s crown atop an Hermes box. They were unique, fun, and definitely something we would consider purchasing.

After making our rounds at Scope, we hopped in a cab to head to a brunch hosted by the members-only monthly dinner club in London, New York and Los Angeles known as The Supper Club. The Supper Club is truly one of the coolest concepts when it comes to the underground dinner club trend. It was launched by a super chic gal from London who used her hometown as a testing base before launching it in the U.S. Here’s how it works: you basically pay a yearly fee and that affords you the opportunity of about four dinners a month in one of the three cities. The groups typically consist of thirty-somethings that are influencers in their cities. Dinners range from 50-100 people and are three- to four-course offerings beginning with cocktails. Though The Supper Club does not yet exist in Miami, Tamsin decided to do a special brunch for her members  at the Viceroy hotel (pictured above) where she featured two speakers: Amy Lau of Amy Lau Design and Vivian Rosenthal of Tronic Studio.

The third highlight was our dinner at Hakkasan restaurant at the Fontainebleau hotel in South Beach. The Fontainbleau is one of the most famous hotels because it dates back to the ’60s but it has been revamped Vegas-style and is like a city under one roof. Under this roof happens to be one of the best gourmet Chinese and Cantonese restaurants in the country. The first U.S. outpost of the UK flagship, Hakkasan (pictured left) is absolutely stunning and loads of fun. The space is like a maze of carved panel nooks lending each table an intimacy and privacy. We ordered just about everything on the menu from the fried Peking duck and miso cod to lemon chicken and shu mai dumplings – all of which are a must-try. But be sure to leave room for the warm chocolate cake and the peanut butter ice cream.

Also known as a work of heart.

Where for Art thou? Well, for starters, thou should try Miami Beach where this year marks the eight annual convergence of more than 250 fine and contemporary art galleries from around the world.

This year marks my first Art Basel Miami Beach and all I can say is….WOW.

If you are an art lover or just want to see where the world’s best-dressed come to hang out during the first week of December, the answer is South Beach. This international art show is, without a doubt, a once in a lifetime experience that everyone should attend.

I arrived on Wednesday, December 2nd aka opening day at 11pm and am staying at the newly opened and uber hipster W hotel which seems to be the hottest hotel on the beach and is a convenient 5-minute drive from the Miami Convention Center where the main show takes place.

For those that have never been, this is how it works: the finest and most prestigious galleries showcase their works in the Convention Center where you basically walk up and down dozens of rows to view their booths. I cannot emphasize what a treat this is. It’s like visiting the world’s largest fine and modern art museum where EVERYTHING is for sale. Pining for a Picasso? They’ve got ‘em. Tempted by Thiebaud? You can have his cake, or two, or three.

You can peruse paintings with the likes of Lance Armstrong and Wolfgang Puck, not to mention several bankers under indictment (no joke). (Btw, Lance is so not cute in person, I hate to burst anyone’s Live Strong bubble).

Once you visit the Convention Center, you then have the option of venturing to all of the peripheral shows that pepper the city where you can view the latest in graffiti art and Japanese porn animation. I will be visiting some of these today and tomorrow and will share today’s musings in tomorrow’s post.

After returning to the W, we made three stops before calling it a night. First, we stopped by the Maybach cocktail party where the luxury motor vehicle manufacturer showcased their lastest hot wheels. Then we made our way aboard a sailboat for the Casa Dragones tequila launch party. At 11pm, we shmoozed with friends at Nikki Beach (one of Miami’s hottest nightclubs) where we had a table in honor of the topless burlesque show flown in for the week from The Box in New York (think Cirque du Soleil meets the Pussycat Dolls).

Before turning in to our room, we may or may not have consumed the BEST pizza I have ever had in our friend’s suite at 3am.

But as a member of the Faux Diet Club, then you’ll know that if you can’t remember the name of the restaurant from which the pizza came, then the calories don’t count (wink).

Tune in tomorrow, for Day Two – More Musings from Miami.

Spain Extravaganza – Day 12-16, Barcelona Part II:

By the time we arrive back in Barcelona we feel quite European. We eat pork for breakfast, dinner at 11 PM, nap frequently, and now have our own apartment. Andres, as if he weren’t fabulous enough, loves to cook AND his specialty is paella. We hit the Mercado de Boqueria and buy an array of produce, meats, seafood, condiments and spices and stock up the kitchen.

The next five days are spent working (Hotel Arts is divine, a true urban resort, the Neri ideal for those wanting a more authentic Barcelona experience), playing (BBQ’s with locals thanks to friends Jo and Eric) and trying to figure out how to live here each summer. We’re entirely smitten with Spain, the people, the lifestyle, the food, the culture, the atmosphere… So perhaps there will be another installment from the road in 2010, stay tuned!

Spain Extravaganza – Days 10 & 11, Oviedo:

Another disclosure: We went to Oviedo solely because it was featured in Vicky Cristina Barcelona, possibly one the greatest movies produced. Andres and I have crushes on both Javier Bardem and Penelope Cruz (and are thrilled they’re procreating). Our Hotel de la Reconquista (visited in the flick) is sensational, an 18^th century parador with antique wood furnishings, ornate tapestries, massive oil paintings depicting Spanish royalty, carved wood sculptures of cherubs, and wrought-iron lamps hanging throughout the rambling property. We keep discovering new courtyards and secret stairways and barely want to leave to explore. But leave we do, and head to San Francisco Park, replete with rose bushes and fountains; but the highlight is the elderly men exercising on the outdoor gym equipment. I envision them meeting here daily, twisting and swinging on the archaic equipment. After a quick game of table tennis, we’re off to Old Town with quaint cobblestone streets, beautiful cathedrals and…more wine. The scourge of dating a sommelier.

We read of these 9^th Century Pre-Romanesque churches just outside the city and after our usual routine (start with directions from the hotel, get lost, Garmin it, get lost again, ask someone on the street, find ourselves lost, ask another person with decidedly better English, locate street signs with cryptic icons, lost, retrace our steps, re-locate the signs, find monument) we find the churches. Set up on a slope, the view is idyllic, bathed in the afternoon golden light. Andres and I plop ourselves down in front of Santa Maria del Naranco and feast on a picnic of chorizo, jamon iberico, manchego, blue cheese, a baguette, plums and a full-bodied tempranillo. This is as close as one can get to travel perfection.

Spain Extravaganza – Days 8 & 9, San Sebastian:

San Sebastian is a stylish seaside town in the Basque region of Spain on the Northern coast known for its cutting-edge gastronomy and sandy beaches. A favorite of Queen Maria Cristina, the only five-star hotel in town bears her name. Built in 1912, this belle époque stunner is set in a dramatic location at the end of a quay with the waves crashing from every direction, breaking on huge boulders and mesmerizing to behold. While much of the hotel can be described as flamboyant bordering on fussy, some of the rooms have wrap-around terraces and all have exquisite bathrooms. They are starting renovation of upper level rooms this fall to update and simplify this classic beauty in stages.

This town is graceful, with elegant architecture, happening beaches, a charming old quarter, chic boutiques and best of all, so many little restaurant-bars featuring inexpensive wines by the glass and scrumptious pinxtos, the Basque version of tapas. These bars have a few seats, some areas for standing and the goods out on display. Grab a plate and select some nibbles: grilled octopus, crab in puff pastry, baked Brie and sun dried tomato drizzled with lavender-infused honey on toasty bit… And these are just the traditional options. Many modern takes on pinxtos abound at sleek establishments, taking cue from Adrian Feria at El Bulli, incorporating avant-garde ingredients like savory sorbets and froth. Unafraid to combine seemingly dissimilar textures and flavors, these chefs experiment with dishes like scallops paired with a dollop of avocado foam and tiny scoop of anise gelato. Everything is (nearly) bite-sized and you wander from bar to bar, eating and drinking until satiated. I became addicted to these deep purple sangria slushies, apparently sent straight from heaven. You’re convinced they have no alcohol until after the second, when you’re inexplicably gobbling up anchovies, things with mayonnaise or other less delectable items. We finished off our first night of gourmet ramblings with a bottle of wine on the beach at sunset.

One of the most excellent attributes of San Sebastian is how compact this city is, entirely walkable. Early one morning we walked up Monte Urgull to the fortress complete with an enormous statue of Jesus, antique canons and to-die-for sea views. Plus some exercise to burn off all the pork products and queso we’d been eating for over a week now. Have I mentioned the daily meat menu?

We walked from the Old Quarter along the promenade, past Playa de la Concha, stopping at Mirmar Palace, and then meandering all the way down to Ondarreta beach and to the stirring Eduardo Chillida Wind Combs sculptures as the very end. These massive twisted metal artworks, icons of San Sebastian, dominate the huge boulders and are accentuated by the crashing waves. We spent the rest of the afternoon at the beach; me topless and Andres in his Hugo Boss Euro swim shorts a la Daniel Craig in Casino Royale. Viva España!

Spain Extravaganza – Days 5-7, Rioja:

I’ve been to many of the top wine regions of the world: Mendoza in Argentina, Franschhoek in South Africa, California hotspots from Healdsburg to Paso Robles, and Rioja is as idyllic and panoramic as they come. Spread between three areas, Rioja Alta, Rioja Baja and Rioja Alavesa, there is much ground to cover to see all that the region has to offer. Besides world-class wineries, there are picturesque medieval towns, Michelin-starred restaurants and glorious vistas throughout this part of Spain.

We spent two nights at the Parador de Santa Domingo de la Calzada, in the town of the same name. This tiny town is wonderful for ambling and we happened upon a street festival with puppets, characters on stilts and comedic relief by hammed-up buffoons. Welcome to summer in Spain. Our hotel, a 12th century structure, once a hospital for pilgrims on the way to Santiago de Compostela, features a main hall with stone Gothic arches, gorgeous heavy antique wood furnishings, spacious rooms with marble bathrooms and French doors opening out on the plaza. Not for every client as luxury is not a word I’d use to describe it, but authentic and historic.

We spent the next few days visiting all types of wineries:  historic, private, modern, isolated, ivy-covered, sleek, lavender-surrounded, famous-architect-designed, cold and corporate…and found the best of the best. We perused ancient walled towns (Laguardia is exceptional), discovered restaurant gems, tiny patisseries, charcuteries and wine shops (hey, somebody has to do it). We’ve customized expert trips for wine connoisseurs and gourmands alike, details can be obtained by contacting me directly for a proposal; escorted trips with Andres and his partner Michael will be offered next summer.

The highlight of our visit was a stay at the outstanding Marques de Riscal hotel. A Starwood property designed by Frank Gehry, this hotel has put Rioja on the map for the luxury traveler. Situated in the delightful town of Elciego, this contemporary tour de force of curvaceous gold and pink titanium is not only the preeminent hotel in Rioja, it is truly one of the most unique and lavish in the country. There are two wings, the Gehry Wing, which, if you are an architecture buff (which account for a huge percentage of visits annually) is a must. You’re right in the rolling mass of metal, and each room arcs to mimic the waves. The rooms are significantly smaller than the Spa Wing rooms, which appear bland and boxy after the Gehry counterparts, but are quite large and have views of the structure and the town with charming cathedral and/or vineyards sightings. The bathrooms are standard for both, enormous and spectacular with black marble and granite, huge tubs and separate glassed-in shower.

We ate at Bistro 1860, the casual restaurant as the fine dining option was closed, and the tasting menu was indeed tasty, but nothing fabulous. Magnificent wine list, we ordered a bottle of Marques de Murrieta Ygay 2000, which was positively luscious. We drank port with a couple we met up in the library, where guests can smoke cigars, relax on the terrace and play chess. Michelin-starred Executive Chef Francis Paniego runs both restaurants, and while we weren’t bowled over by dinner, breakfast the next morning was decadent and more than compensated.

In the lower level, the award-winning Caudalie Spa is striking, with black granite and flourishes of red. Besides the gym, indoor pool, and hammam, they offer traditional massages and wine therapies, their most popular being the detoxifying vino bath. They even offer a weeklong detox program with intense treatments, popular with starlets preparing to walk the red carpet. After a week of a practically all-meat and wine diet, I’m ready to enroll.

Spain Extravaganza – Day 5, Bilbao:

Although we get to the Barcelona airport the next morning with an hour to spare, we arrive in Bilbao, but our luggage does not. We are told by the smiling Vueling ground representative that our bags will arrive around 5:30 PM that night and will be delivered to us…on Monday. It’s Saturday. They see nothing wrong with this logic. We are no longer praising Vueling. In fact no client of mine will ever be flying this airline (not that the national carrier Iberia is a plush option). Anyways, our only option is to linger around Bilbao for the next six hours and get the baggage ourselves. We pick up our car and head to the Guggenheim for a dose of culture.

I’m totally prepared. Besides being a Virgo and obsessively organized, this is my job. I have my brand-new Garmin GPS, pre-loaded Europe software, printed directions from Google Maps, my iPhone GPS and a Michelin map. You see, I’m in charge of navigation. I don’t know how to drive stick, and as the automatic cars were almost 800 Euro more, Andres, thankfully adept and willing, has offered to be the designated driver the entire trip. I put on my acupressure motion-sickness bands (not ideal – the navigatress gets carsick) and get ready to lead us. Certainly we can’t get lost with all this groundwork and technological gadgetry. I am wrong. We barely make it out of the parking garage. Barely into Bilbao proper. We change Garmin voices three times (Australian guy ‘Lee’ is too difficult to understand, British ‘Daniel’ is just annoying) and settle on ‘American English Samantha’. We somehow make it to the

Guggenheim mainly using signs within the city, not the trusty GPS and certainly not the directions (I’m too nauseous to look at the map inset closely). No sooner do we park then Andres realizes he doesn’t know how to put the car in reverse. Truly. It won’t slide into gear. I’m calling the concierge to cancel our wine tasting that afternoon, ever conscious of the ridiculous AT&T charges I’m incurring, and Andres is flagging down strangers, one of which gets in the vehicle and shows us how to put it in reverse (FYI: push down first). We feel oddly triumphant…our first hurdle! Surpassed!

Bilbao is a pretty city on the Nervión River traversed by a graceful bridge designed by architect Santiago Calatrava and capped by the masterpiece Guggenheim museum by the venerable Frank Gehry. A pool of water surrounds the dramatic undulating sculptural façade of titanium and steel and the back entrance is ‘guarded’ by a Louise Bourgeois Spider, a larger version than that formerly by the Ferry Building in San Francisco.

Inside, the monumental Richard Serra rolled-steel environments are serene and enveloping, and the Cai Guo-Qiang installation in the entry consisting of real cars pierced by light tubes and suspended from floor to ceiling is visually dazzling. But by far the most arresting exhibit, also by Qiang, features dozens of life-size clay figures of peasants in various poses, all paying tribute to their feudal lord. Influenced by Mao Zedong’s Red China during the Cultural Revolution of 1966-76, these sculptures, frozen in various poses are haunting, literally crumbling before our eyes as the clay disintegrates throughout the exhibit’s duration.

Outside children dance around playfully timed fountains and visitors admire Puppy by Jeff Koons, a gigantic floral sculpture of a West Highland terrier. Since we have many hours to kill, we enjoy a picnic and a nap in the sun on the lawn of the museum. Returning to the car, we note an almost-flat front tire. After numerous attempts to find a gas station via Garmin, we drive back to the airport, fingers crossed for no blowout, and retrieve our baggage and exchange the car. Another hurdle – bravo! Again we’re off, onto the Rioja wine region, much later than expected but still in high spirits. Even when we get lost. Again.

I could chronicle every driving conundrum, but there are many. Once we learned to manage Samantha, the Garmin was essentially a lifesaver. I do not recommend renting one while traveling for any extended period, as they are so inexpensive now the cost of leasing from a car agency is nearly the same as buying. Plus you generally can’t reserve one if you pickup and return the car to different locations. GPS systems have come so far from the early days (I recall no satellite reception in France in 2005, heck no reception in Manhattan once in 2006) and I cannot recommend them more highly. And while I’ve only used Garmins, I have heard from experienced GPS users (not just the teenager working at Best Buy) that Garmin is the best brand.

I should also add, Andres’ extreme driving skills, enviable patience and omnipresent sense of humor ensured we never bickered (about directions) and made it to where we needed to be. All with only a rudimentary knowledge of Spanish for the both of us. Well done…